4 Malaysian designers who elevate traditional apparel to the next-level

ALIA BASTAMAM

As one of the leading designers in Malaysia, Alia Bastamam needs no introduction. Having established her eponymous label in 2010, the creative’s design rule is simple: to only create clothes that she would wear. Over the decade, she has introduced luxury ready-to-wear collections that are infused with a resort-centric aesthetic while championing femininity and striking a balance between strength and sensuality.

The brand’s recent Eid 2022 collection perfectly encapsulates Bastamam’s understanding of women’s moods and auras. A line-up that “stirs Asian tradition for the modern woman”, the looks exude that sense of ease, making them the perfect get-ups for Raya, Resort and everything in between. Case in point: the Kimono Sarong ensemble that incorporates a hint of Japanese influence, and the Afzan pantsuit that features a flowy draped top with streamlined trousers that flare at the bottom. Elsewhere, the Sweater-Cut Kurung is traditional with a hint of contemporary, thanks to the relaxed top that ends right below the waist.

From the main Alia Bastamam brand to the made-to-measure Alia Bastamam Atelier and Bridal lines, and the diffusion label Alia B, the designer truly caters to all sides of a woman. Having bagged the Designer of the Year award at KL Fashion Week in 2017 and Decade of Excellence and Brand of the Year titles at KL Fashion Awards, as well as showcasing her S/S ’20 collection during Milan Fashion Week, the label is clearly showing no signs of slowing down, and we look forward to seeing more milestones in the next decade.

ANAABU

When Anaabu was founded in 2010, it started out as an online vintage clothing store, and it wasn’t until five years later that the brand pivoted to focus on producing its own collections. But one thing both businesses have in common (besides its name)? Upholding a core value—sustainability. Founder and civil engineer-turned-designer Ana Abu describes her namesake brand as one that “infuses soft androgyny into every inch of its creation”, with a mission to achieve a greener production system, from A to Z.

For the brand’s Eid 2022 collection titled “Kembali” (return in English), Ana Abu turns back time by revisiting some of the designs and silhouettes that define the label but don’t get her wrong, it’s not about living in the past—it’s about how you could reinvent yourself through reflecting and recognising, and through trials and errors. Sticking to her minimal and muted aesthetic, looks are cut in clean and relaxed silhouettes, and rendered in neutral tones that are fail-proof. Eye-catching details such as scallop hem and well-loved prints add that right amount of pick-me-up.

Some of the label’s highlights include the alluringly draped Sarung that sits higher at the waist, the Pulang oversized kimono that can be styled as a kebarung or as outerwear, and the kebaya that features a loose-fitting piece that’s worn over a matching top. Unisex designs such as the Teman Melayu top and the Umbi kurta can be paired with pants or sarungs depending on the wearer. Regardless of your pick, one thing’s for sure, they’re equal parts comfort, practicality and versatility.

BEHATI

When it comes to up-and-coming homegrown labels, no one’s making waves quite like Behati. Launched in 2018, the brand has consistently broken the norms in traditional attire which led to numerous viral moments that catapulted its name into the limelight.

Citing Malaysian history as his main source of inspiration, founder Kel Wen once said in an interview that he’s always been taught to be inspired by things outside of the country even though our traditional costumes are almost untouched in the global fashion scene. In a multicultural country like Malaysia, the rich heritage and crafts from different races can be reimagined through a contemporary lens, and the designer wants to create looks that speak to the nation.

Some of Behati’s most talked-about designs include the Baju Oversize—a supersized Baju Melayu top that broke the internet; Baju Pendek—Baju Melayu co-ords featuring shorts that end right below the knee; and Jubah Viral—a long robe that’s cut in the same XXL silhouette.

The brand’s most recent drop, “Dayak”, is a capsule collection that was launched in celebration of Hari Gawai. The traditional Dayak motifs as well as the patterns from the Pua Kumbu ceremonial cloth and Kain Sidan are digitally printed onto unisex shirts that are framed with oversized Cuban collars, complete with Malay Kekek sleeve panel. The response to his designs may be polarising, but one thing’s for sure, it’s only onwards and upwards for Kel Wen and Behati.

FERN

Unlike the rest of the labels on our list, instead of focusing on traditional attire, Fern Chua is celebrating and rediscovering a heritage fabric art form—batik. Granted, she may not be the first designer to do so, but her modern take that’s skewed towards simplicity and effortless elegance definitely adds to the charm.

Having picked up batik designing to rehabilitate her hand movement after a bad car accident over 10 years ago, Fern fell in love with the art and launched her namesake brand in 2013, specialising in luxury lifestyle resort wear. Since then, the designer has introduced eight key collections that are all inspired by nature, each series representing an element that’s close to her heart—from her family to her life experiences.

Her latest collection, the Batik Flora series, once again showcases her love for nature, as ensembles such as the pastel Aisha dress that’s reminiscent of the classic kimono, emblazoned in a maxi flora print and pulled together with an obi belt. The Qera dress in Diamond Circle and Bunga Syiling Block motifs is made up of a mandarin-collar shirt bodice and a multi-way wrap skirt.

In 2019, Fern debuted its flagship store at Bangsar Village II which also retails a curated selection of homeware, jewellery and accessories from local and global artisanal labels, further expanding her passion and sharing her love for beautifully made crafts.