7 fashionably deadly sins found on runways
Pride, greed, lust, envy, gluttony, wrath and sloth – as seen in fashon – past and present.
PRIDE
From having a live gospel choir blending music and political message; a sermon by writer Casey Gerald featuring the topics of enslavement; to casting only POC models in his shows, Kerby Jean-Raymond has always built Pyer Moss around black history and has continuously explored what it means to be black in America. Last year, Jean-Raymond became the first black designer to officially show on the Paris Couture Week schedule, and it was truly Black Camp at its finest. Honouring inventions by blacks, the collection was presented at the Westchester County mansion of Madame C.J. Walker, the first female African-American self-made millionaire.
With that said, there’s no denying that fashion’s journey to diversity has been a long and winding road, but credits must be given to brands that are consciously confronting the issue. For his final show as the President and Chief Creative Officer at Burberry, Christopher Bailey dedicated the Autumn/Winter 2018 collection to the LGBTQ+ community. “There has never been a more important time to say that in our diversity lies our strength and our creativity,” said Bailey in a statement. Aside from looks that are emblazoned in its iconic checks in rainbow hues, the fashion house also donated to three charities that serve the community—the Albert Kennedy Trust, the Trevor Project and ILGA.
GREED
“Money is the biggest fetish in the world,” said Creative Director Demna Gvasalia in a backstage interview at Balenciaga’s Spring/Summer 2023 show. Held at the New York Stock Exchange, aka the heart of American capitalism, the French Maison presented a fetish-inspired collection filled with full-body latex suits and stark black outfits. In between them all? Garde-Robe—its new line comprising beautifully draped blouses and tailored outerwear—as well as sporty looks that confirmed the brand’s rumoured collaboration with Adidas.
Meanwhile, at Demna’s founded brand Vetements, which is currently being run by his brother Guram Gvasalia, the brand printed 1,000 fake million-dollar bills to create the set, referencing the illusive nature of wealth. Inspired by the Nouveau riche which includes social media and Bitcoin millionaires, the brand is “pushing to redefine the couture and savoir faire of the previous generations for the new era.” The result? A line-up filled with juxtapositions, as boxy coats and jackets are paired with oversized shirts and hoodies; velour tracksuits reinvented into evening gowns; tailored suits crafted from jersey fabric and more.
LUST
Think of lust and the late Thierry Mugler’s provocative, futurist femininity and architectural couture aesthetic naturally come into mind. Although he stepped away from fashion in 2002, as an industry veteran for over 50 years, he remained one of the visionaries for high-voltage fashion. Some of his most iconic looks include the S/S ’92 Harley Davidson corset that mirrored the front of a motorcycle; the S/S ’95 Birth of Venus dress that was worn by Cardi B to the 2019 Grammy Awards; and Kim Kardashian’s 2019 Met Gala “wet” dress that Mugler came out of retirement to create. The designer may have left us early this year, but one thing’s for sure: his extravagant legacy lives on.
The fashion industry has seen a huge amount of rising talents in recent years, but London-based Albanian designer Nensi Dojaka is undoubtedly one of the creatives who’s making the biggest waves. Known for her ultra-feminine designs that play with deconstructed details, sheer fabrics and delicate strings, the designer’s instantly recognisable aesthetic has garnered a slew of A-list followings, from celebs Rihanna and Zendaya to It-girls Bella Hadid and Emily Ratajkowski.
ENVY
Did you know that Jennifer Lopez’s Versace dress led to the creation of Google Images? On February 23, 2000, Jennifer Lopez arrived at the 42nd Grammy Awards wearing a silk chiffon Versace jungle dress that featured a V-neck so deep that it extended well past the navel. It broke the internet and the rest is history. Fast forward 20 years later, at the end of the fashion house’s Spring/Summer 2020 show, the singer brought internet history to life by appearing in an updated version of the flowy number which, unsurprisingly, went viral once again. The striking piece is the epitome of green with envy, and it’s a testament to the impact of fashion.
It’s also impossible to think of the colour without mentioning Bottega Veneta’s “Parakeet Green”. While the cult status of its accessories is undeniable, it’s its Lunar New Year campaign that made the loudest noise this year. Back in January, the brand staged a takeover on the Great Wall of China, creating a massive digital screen to display its logo alongside “Happy New Year” in Chinese characters. The installation is done in its signature shade and in a tangerine shade of orange which is a symbol of luck in China.
GLUTTONY
When it comes to food in fashion, Moschino’s McDonald’s-inspired collection is undoubtedly one of the most iconic. Debuted in the Fall 2014 collection, the junk food-themed show featured an array of “fast fashion” pieces, as models dressed as ultra-chic McDonald’s employees, complete with Happy Meal bags, red-and-yellow visors, Golden Arches sunglasses and more. Copyright infringement debates aside, we’re lovin’ it.
Having first collaborated with Coca-Cola for their bottle designs back in 2015, A Bathing Ape teamed up with the beverage brand once again in 2020 for a capsule collection featuring updated bottle designs as well as fashion separates. From hoodies and swimwear to bucket hats and headbands, the line is emblazoned with the logos of both brands and rendered in striking hues, including black, white and red—Coca-Cola’s signature colour palette.
WRATH
One of the highlights on the Spring/Summer 2020 runways? Leon Dame’s angry closing walk for the Maison Margiela show. Clad in a militaristic look in full leather, the German model’s aggressive stomp down the runway—which includes a fierce pose at the end—instantly became viral, sparking a party of memes on social media.
Channeling true anger and destruction, though, was Rick Owens at his Spring/Summer 2019 show the year before. Held in Palais de Tokyo, the runway featured a centrepiece of a flaming pyre which set the ritualistic theme, and models walked in body armour and sculptural looks complete with blazing torches—seemingly preparing themselves to survive in this dark world. Elements of destruction and demolition can be seen via the geometrical cut-outs and deconstructed silhouettes.
SLOTH
The viral #pillowchallenge may have only unfurled during the pandemic-induced lockdown, but Viktor & Rolf may have predicted it when they introduced their sleep-themed Fall/Winter 2005 collection over 15 years ago. Never one to shy away from the world of the weird and wonderful, the duo sent down looks that revolved entirely around the bed, from satin bedsheet dresses to duvet coats with ruffled collars. The accessory du jour, though, was definitely the pillows that were strapped to the back of the models’ heads. Oh, what a dream to have a sweet, stylish slumber.
Speaking of slumber, Moncler and DingYun Zhang’s Spring/Summer 2022 collection can be described in four words—cosy but make it fantastical. A team-up between Moncler and Chinese-born designer Dingyun Zhang for the “Genius” collaborative project, the capsule line— dubbed “Underwater Futurism”—is experimental and otherwordly. Zhang took inspiration from the environment around him and crafted looks that sculpt the body into new forms, complete with exaggerated sleeves and Chinese-style knotted buttons.
