The 4 key signatures of Van Cleef & Arpels high jewellery
Van Cleef & Arpels has always been ahead of the curve. For a jewellery house that was established in the early 20th century, the Maison sure values the ideological construct of inventiveness as much as it does the art of visual storytelling.
This constant pursuit of technical breakthrough combined with poetic inspiration drawn from nature, couture, dance or imaginary worlds has over the years brought an abundance of avant-garde creations to the brand’s high jewellery roster.
From quintessential jewellery pieces to groundbreaking craftsmanship, these are four of the many Van Cleef & Arpels’ high jewellery signatures that have earned their icon status.
Zip Necklace
Possibly the most recognisable showpiece as far as high jewellery goes, the Zip necklace is a towering achievement in every sense of the word. Here, Van Cleef & Arpels pays tribute to the couture scene—a subtle nod to its Parisian roots—as it adopts the likeness of a zip fastener.
It all began in the 1930s when the Duchess of Windsor made a suggestion to artistic director Renée Puissant to reinterpret this new-found fastening technology, first used in aviator jackets and sailors’ uniforms before it was appropriated by haute couture, through the lens of a jeweller.
Intrigued by the idea, Puissant took it to the drawing board and revealed the inaugural Zip necklace in 1950. Imitating the zipper function, the necklace can be worn open as a necklace or closed as a bracelet, illustrating the maison’s knack for innovative, transformable pieces.
Pierres de Caractère
Precious, fine and hard stones are combined, complimented and contrasted in the Pierres de Caractère creation. The embodiment of Van Cleef & Arpels’ reverence for exceptional stones, the collection not only emphasises visual excellence but also the unique character of each gem.
Journeying to the far-flung corners of the world in search of the most spectacular pieces of mineral crystal, the maison pays particular attention to the colour, weight, cut and shape as well as the inherent beauty of the stone.
Intensity is also big at Van Cleef & Arpels. When selecting emeralds and rubies, for instance, the jeweller seeks out ones with intense and radiant colour. Committed to using gems that instill emotion, the maison also ensures stringent ethical and quality standards are put in place accordingly.
Feminine Figures
Femininity has been translated in myriads of ways at the jewellery house; it has borrowed the delicate silhouettes of ballerinas and fairies and these two points of reference have been religiously revisited throughout the century.
One of the earliest fairy creations to appear in the Van Cleef & Arpels catalogue was the 1941 Spirit of Beauty clip which American socialite Barbara Hutton was the custodian of. Instantly recognisable for its winged profile, the fairy still graces the maison with its benevolent presence to this day.
The ballerina, on the other hand, is a symbol of the brand’s close ties with the world of dance. The first ballerina clips, evoking ballet poses in gold with precious stones, were born from Louis Arpels’ deep passion for opera and ballet.
Mystery Set
Patented in 1933, the Mystery Set technique is a true testament to Van Cleef & Arpels’ savoir-faire. This revolutionary technique has received universal acclaim for its role in allowing gems to be displayed on a piece of jewellery without visible mounting.
The secret lies in the gold rails onto which specially-cut stones are positioned one by one. After hours of recutting, they are set to perfectly cover the jewelled surface. It is an intricate process that entails up 300 hours of work just to produce a single clip.
Since the beginning of the 21st century, the maison has introduced spin-offs of this innovation that include the Navette Mystery Set, in which marquise-cut stones create a three-dimensional effect, and the Vitrail Mystery Set, which plays on the stones’ transparency.
Visit vancleefarpels.com to find out more.
