Interview: Creative director Andrea Pompilio talks about Onitsuka Tiger latest collection
This is the first time OT showed in Milan. How much of the “East Meets West” concept do you apply to your designs?
The concept of “East meets West” is definitely very present, but it is very difficult for me to say what is the percentage of East and what of West because I have always been very inspired by the East and therefore in all these years, I have absorbed the influences of the Asian world that have become an integral part of my personality combined with my Italian origins. For me, this mix of cultures is an automatic and extremely instinctive process.
What are the main inspirations behind the collection this season?
The inspiration of this collection comes from the peaks of the Himalayas and that is why we find different connections with the world of trekking. A natural and uncontaminated place where one can take a walk that make us somehow find ourselves.
The collection feels very rooted in functionality. How did that idea come about?
Functionality is in Onitsuka Tiger's DNA. Everything has always been based on the concept of functionality and comfort combined with design. Each collection, both in clothing and shoes, must express this concept.
Most of the pieces also look very unisex—what is your design approach when it comes to dressing men and women?
Honestly, I haven't seen a specific sexuality in my collections for a long time. I have a gender-fluid approach. Anyway, I am adding some more feminine items in the women's collections such as dresses, skirts and small crop tops to mix with unisex items such as pants, outerwear, padded jackets, etc.
Which are some of your favorite looks for women in this collection?
I love all the looks in this collection but my absolute favourites are the ones with the pinstripe fabric and I love the waist belt—a special detail of this season.
This season you also collaborated with Toyoki Adachi. How did it come about and what draws you to his graphics?
I love to collaborate with artists or people who can add value to the collection. I immediately fell in love with Toyoki Adachi's prints. These prints remind me of the spring landscape of mountains and flowering trees.
As a designer, you’ve also collaborated with so many other brands from Diesel to Rossignol to name a few. Tell us more about the experiences and how did it influence you?
Each collaboration is a self-test and a new challenge at the same time. It’s extremely motivating and creative. I am definitely not one of those creative directors who can only work for himself or for a single brand. I think that my creative fluidity, and the fact that I can work with different brands at the same time brings nothing but positivity and further creativity.
Has the pandemic changed the way you work?
The pandemic has not changed the way of designing but the process. The main difference is there’s a lot less traveling, we work a lot more with the computer and phone to follow up the processes closely with my Japanese team. Apart from these difficulties, the rest hasn't changed either in terms of design or my creative process.
What do you hope to see post-pandemic—in fashion and in life in general.
History teaches that after every negative moment, the sun will shine again, and stronger than ever. For this reason, I think that as soon as the pandemic ends, everything, including fashion trends, will come out with more excitement, creativity and more beautiful than before.
