Doctors explain the different types of sun damage and how to pick the right SPF products

Sounds Sun!

From physical and chemical sunscreen to hybrid formulas, we selected some of our favourite SPF products that will make you fall in love with your suncare routine.

If there’s one skincare trend that should last forever, it would be suncare. Over recent years, suncare has been one of the biggest conversations in the world of beauty and the innovation in sunscreen formulas (think: powder, stick and serum) is the best testimony to the growing awareness of sun damage. That being said, it remains difficult to decipher what is fact or fiction about sun protection.

Diana Lim, Medical Doctor at Premier Clinic, tells L’Officiel that despite a significant shift towards the awareness of sun damage, the majority of Malaysians skip sunscreen because of the misconception that tanner and darker Asian skin is exempt from sun damage. “Just because the skin doesn’t burn, doesn’t mean that the sun is not harming your skin,” says Dr Lim. “It’s important for us to know that the sun emits different types of UV radiations. UVB rays cause sunburn that can lead to cancer, whilst UVA rays contribute to the acceleration of ageing skin, such as fine lines, sagging and hyperpigmentation.”

When it comes to navigating the myriad of sunscreen options, understanding protection level is just as important as choosing the right ingredients. SPF, which stands for sun protection factor, is a measure of how much UV radiation is required to cause sunburn on protected skin relative to unprotected skin. “SPF only indicates the protection against UVB rays, and if your sunscreen is not labelled with broad spectrum, it doesn’t shield the skin from UVA rays,” says Dr Lim. She further shares that in America and European countries, sunscreens have “broad spectrum” labels to identify coverage for both UVA and UVB rays, whereas Japanese and Korean sunscreens use “PA+” to rate UVA rays protection grade. And we should look for sunscreens with an SPF of at least 30 and PA+++ or more, according to Dr Lim.

Invisible Physical Defense Mineral Sunscreen SPF30 DERMALOGICA
Vegan Airfit™ Sunscreen SPF 50+ PA++++ MELIXIR

Queen Screen Luminising Sun Serum SPF 50+ ULTRA VIOLETTE
All-Physical Ultimate Defense Broad Spectrum Sunscreen SPF 50 PA+++ DR DENNIS GROSS

That said, not all sunscreens are created equal, and they are divided into two major classes: chemical and physical. Chemical sunscreen usually contains organic filters like oxybenzone, avobenzone, octinoxate, and octisalate. The skin absorbs chemical sunscreen and then converts the UV rays into heat to release them so that the harmful radiation does not damage the skin on a cellular level. Physical sunscreen, on the other hand, uses zinc oxide and titanium dioxide to shield the skin surface and deflect the heat and energy of the sun.

Unlike the airy, lightweight chemical sunscreen that sits delicately underneath makeup, physical sunscreen traditionally comes in a thicker formulation and leaves a white cast on the skin. However, “all physical sunscreens are broad spectrum, but not every chemical sunscreen offers protection against UVA rays,” Dr Lim explains. “Look out for ingredients like oxybenzone and avobenzone to make sure your chemical sunscreen also protects against UVA rays.”

According to Jancy Tung, Medical Doctor at Bright Clinic, dry skin and sensitive skin tend to love physical sunscreen more as “it’s moisturising and the mineral filters in physical sunscreen are less irritating to the skin.” She recommends that chemical sunscreen users layer their products. “For example, you can team your dedicated sunscreen with a moisturiser or foundation with SPF to ensure there’s enough protection.” Dr Lim, too, agrees that there’s no such thing as too much SPF. “Chances are you’re wearing insufficient amount of your sunscreen, and by layering it with other SPF-infused products, you can contribute to the minimal defence your skin needs even though it does not make your sun protection last longer.”

With sunscreen being reinvented relentlessly to cater to diverse skin needs, there’s now a blurred line between chemical sunscreen and physical sunscreen. “A hybrid sunscreen has both chemical and mineral components, meaning you get a blendable, breathable consistency without an ashy finish and losing the calming benefits,” says Dr Lim. “It depends on what your skin loves. Know the protection grade, ingredients and concentration, don’t be too fixated and always go for a reputable brand.”

Hydra Vizor Invisible Moisturizer SPF 30 FENTY SKIN
Pro-Collagen Marine Cream SPF 30 ELEMIS

Advanced Sun Protection Daily Moisturizer SPF 50 PAULA'S CHOICE
Banana Bright Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30 OLE HENRIKSEN

Anthelios UVMUNE 400 Invisible Fluid Tinted SPF50+ Sunscreen LA ROCHE POSAY
Umbra Tinte™ Physical Daily Defense Sunscreen SPF 30 DRUNK ELEPHANT

What’s harder than finding the sunscreen of your life is developing the habit of reapplying SPF throughout the day. To make sure your face, ears and neck are protected, Dr Lim suggests following the two-finger rule and retouching your SPF every two hours, especially during the peak time of sun exposure. “Many underestimate the amount of sunscreen they need,” she says. “Not reapplying SPF can defeat the purpose of your suncare and even entire skincare routine.”

Lucky for us, touching up SPF is now much more hygienic, no longer sabotaging your makeup look, thanks to those on-the-go sunscreens with finishes from dewy to matte and everything in between. Both Dr Tung and Dr Lim approve of powdered sunscreen as a fuss-free pick-me-up to retouch SPF and get rid of that shine.

“For delicate skin around the eyes that is prone to dryness, sunscreen sticks make for a more enjoyable and promising option with its hydrating properties,” Dr Lim details. “Last but not least, your lips could use some SPF too. Like how UV rays contribute to the signs of skin ageing, they are also to blame for the acceleration of dehydration, hyperpigmentation and volume loss for the lips.”