Dr. Dennis Gross shares everything you need to know about the Vitamin C Lactic line
When the dynamic duo of skincare meet.
We caught up with Dr. Dennis Gross, the mastermind behind the eponymous brand as he shares how your skin can benefit from the high-performance line.
Can you give us a brief introduction of the story behind the new Vitamin C Lactic line?
Nearly everyone can benefit from having vitamin C in their skincare regimen. I wanted to create an innovative formula that used a potent concentration of vitamin C with unique ingredient combinations so consumers could receive the maximum benefits of vitamin C – without the irritation. One of my philosophies as formulator and product chemist is to use ingredients that work synergistically together, meaning the ingredients provide superior results when combined. Vitamin C is one of my favorite ingredients because of its versatility and many scienced-backed benefits, including neutralizing free radicals, stimulating new collagen production and diminishing hyperpigmentation.
I found that when you formulate vitamin C with lactic acid, lactic acid improves vitamin C absorption and performance and strengthens the moisture barrier for reduced irritation. In recent medical literature, lactic acid has also been shown to work in the moisture barrier to neutralize free radicals in the lipid phase of skin, making it the perfect partner to vitamin C. I created the new Vitamin C Lactic products with vitamin C plus lactic acid to reduce dark spots, prevent and reduce wrinkles and even reinforce the skin’s moisture barrier, all at the same time.
What makes you choose lactic acid over other AHAs for this line?
I followed the science. As I mentioned, there are several benefits to the skin when you combine vitamin C with lactic acid (i.e. improved absorption, strengthened moisture barrier and additional free radical protection). You simply don’t get the same benefits when you combine vitamin C with other AHAs. It is important to remember that while AHAs are all from the alpha hydroxy family, they all have unique molecular structures, sizes and benefits. They really are unique ingredients and should be treated as such. Lactic acid is a gentle alpha-hydroxy acid that renews the skin’s surface and replenishes the moisture barrier with ceramides and GAGs.
How would you recommend building a skincare routine with the Vitamin C Lactic line?
It is easy to add Vitamin C Lactic into your daily skincare routine, day or night. When building your regimen, the most important thing to remember is that products should be layered from thinnest to thickest. Always start with the lightest consistency products (peels, boosters, serums) and finish with thicker, denser products (creams, moisturizers). You should select your products based on your skin types and concerns. If your primary concerns are hyperpigmentation, radiance and fine lines and wrinkles, the Vitamin C Lactic category would be a great fit for you. You can incorporate the line into your regimen as your serum, eye treatment, moisturizer, mask or a combination of multiple steps.
Can they replace the exfoliant in our daily routine?
No – this line does not replace the exfoliant in your routine. While the products do contain lactic acid, it is not working as an exfoliant here, but rather a delivery system to improve the penetration and absorption of vitamin C while strengthening the moisture barrier.
The most effective and safe way to exfoliate is with a two-step chemical peel. This is how dermatologists have been treating patients in their offices for decades. A chemical peel works in two steps in order to never throw the skin off balance. The first step uses acids to gently loosen the bonds between the dead skin cells lurking on the surface of the skin and decongest pores. The second step neutralizes the activity of these acids with soothing and active ingredients. I created the first at-home two-step peel over twenty years ago, the Alpha Beta Daily Peel. With my peel, the first step is a precise combination of AHAs and BHAs to gently exfoliate dullness and dissolve build-up while accelerating cell turnover. The second step turns the acids off and floods the skin with repairing, anti-aging and calming ingredients. The results are instant – vibrant, hydrated and smooth looking complexion – with no redness or downtime.
The formulas also pack Licorice, Alpha Tocopherol and Tranexamic Acid. What can you tell us about these ingredients?
Licorice root (of glycyrrhiza glabra) is a proven and powerful antioxidant that brightens the skin and neutralizes free radical activity. I like to formulate it with vitamin C because it helps to reduces free radical activity from external and internal stressors. Alpha tocopherol is a great ingredient to pair with vitamin C because together they address a range of free radical activity. It has anti-inflammatory and photo-protective properties. Meanwhile, Tranexamic acid works with vitamin C to reduce hyperpigmentation and discoloration. It specifically blocks the enzymes responsible for forming new dark spots.
When it comes to active ingredients, what’s the main difference between using a single all-in-one product and layering multiple products?
Using a multi-tasking formula that has been clinically tested will yield superior results than layering many single-ingredient products. This goes back to my clinical research of scienced-backed ingredients and delivery systems. I pride myself in creating cutting-edge delivery systems with only the highest quality, most effective ingredients. Remember that the skin is an organ – the largest organ in our body. It functions to protect us and keep pathogens at bay. To effectively treat the skin to see visible results, it is best to rely on products that use multiple ingredients that have been tested for optimal performance, absorption and results.
For someone new to Dr Dennis Gross Skincare, what's on your recommendation list?
The Alpha Beta Daily Peel is a must-have in your skincare routine. This is a patented, once daily treatment that is clinically proven to boost radiance, smooth lines, refine pores and improve texture. The Alpha Beta Daily Peel comes in 3 strengths based off skin type – Ultra Gentle (dry or sensitive skin), Universal (normal or first time peel user) and Extra Strength (combination or oily skin). With continued use, this daily treatment prevents the breakdown of collagen, stimulates new collagen production and improves skin barrier function.
I love to start my day with the Alpha Beta AHA/BHA Daily Cleansing Gel. I created this cleanser to be soap-free and pH-balanced to deeply cleanse and unclog pores while never stripping the skin or throwing it off balance. It is the perfect prep for any skincare routine.
Sun protection is a key step in preventing new signs of sun aging. Try the All-Physical Lightweight Wrinkle Defense Broad Spectrum Sunscreen SPF 30 PA++++ which is enriched with antioxidants to not only filter UVA/UVB rays, but protect skin’s hydration.
Discover more on drdennisgross.com.
