Revisiting Waku Ghin — the star restaurant at Singapore’s Marina Bay Sands

A towering two-tonne stone sculpture at the reception, serving as a prelude of things to come, leads to the segmented The Bar at Waku Ghin. Here, wooden swivel shelves, adorned with abstract calligraphy paintings by renowned artist Shiro Tsujimura, fence this new extension to the dining area.

There is a story to be told and designer Yohei Akao does it with such grace. His keen design sensibility illuminates the rich tapestry of Japanese culture and it is especially mirrored in the clever use of natural materials as well as craftsmanship perfection of the Land of the Rising Sun.

Needless to say, the same vision is reflected in the degustation menu that pays tribute to chef-proprietor Tetsuya Wakuda’s repertoire through the use of seasonal ingredients from various Japanese prefectures. The uni, one part of the signature marinated botan shrimp with sea urchin dish, for one, is sourced from Hokkaido.

A thoroughly indescribable experience ensues as the velvety texture of the uni, lightly seasoned with Japanese soy and mirin to enhance the natural flavours, clashes with the firmness of the botan ebi, marinated with salt, pepper, olive oil, shallot and tarragon. A generous portion of oscietra caviar puts the dish over the top.

“This particular recipe is the best representation of our philosophy at Waku Ghin. All my dishes are reflective of my life experience and travels around the world. Ingredients are at the centre of all my creations—they are the soul of the dish which inspire the flavours,” says Chef Tetsuya.

“We elevate each dish with simple flavours that enhance the texture and taste—nothing too complicated that takes away from the focus of the core ingredient. It is about being able to draw out the natural flavours of the produce we work with using unadorned techniques,” he adds.

That guiding principle, sure enough, comes to light with each plat du jour that arrives at the table. The wild-caught tuna, which is served on a muted stoneware platter, excites the palate with its meaty texture, evenly laced with fat, further epitomising the concept of edible luxury.

Distinctively rich flavour gushes over at the first bite of the slightly aged chutoro. Balancing the taste profile of the tuna carpaccio, crisp julienne endive and Japanese new-season onions add another layer of gastronomic indulgence, prompting one to ride the waves of deliciousness with glee.

Then enter the sweetfish. Pan-seared to crispy perfection, the fillet is served atop fresh pomelo pulp, diced daikon and fennel, complete with a brush of emerald tade sauce on the side. The taste profile contrasts well with the marbled A5 Ohmi wagyu sushi with well-seasoned shari that follows.

An evening that goes by in a blur of soft music, banter and natter, and a string of haute cuisine to relish is all but guaranteed here. Among other highlights are the grilled carabinero shrimp with lemon-scented extra virgin olive oil and the Japanese wagyu roll with wasabi and citrus soy.

In between these culinary delights, the conversation veers into Wakuda—Chef Tetsuya’s latest venture at Marina Bay Sands. Described as Waku Ghin’s less formal, more fun and approachable counterpart, the restaurant is an authentic yet forward-thinking Japanese restaurant with a menu inspired by the seasons.

“We present dishes that are familiar but done in our unique style through an à la carte menu including classic zensai (appetisers), Australian and Japanese oysters, sashimi, Wakuda-style sushi, tempura, rice bowls and cold sobas, as well as high-quality plates of yakimono (grill) and housemade ice-creams. The menu is more extensive compared to what we serve at Waku Ghin.

“That being said, one thing that remains consistent across all my restaurants is the respect we have for high quality and fresh produce. At Wakuda, we source for seafood from exclusive suppliers in Okinawa in addition to a wider variety of ingredients that both restaurants receive from Australia, Europe, Japan and New Zealand,” he says.