A dream of freedom: Max Mara Resort 2022 show
A diary-book entered into myth. An elegantly slow travel idea. The charm of the swans of Fifth Avenue. Holidays in the refined and wild Ischia. There is all this and more in the Resort 2022 collection that Ian Griffiths designed for Max Mara. The new fashion was unveiled last night in the gardens of the Hotel Mezzatorre, at the end of a two-day discovery of the volcanic island of Ischia and its wonders. "It all started during the lockdown," explains Griffiths, Max Mara's creative director. “Not being able to travel, I started reading and traveling with my imagination. And in my dream of freedom, I came across Truman Capote's Local Color." Released in the fall of 1950, the book is the third published by the author, and also includes some travel diary-style essays on the cities and countries where Capote lived or visited.
And among the destinations, there is Ischia, where he lived for 97 days, from March 23 to June 13, 1949. "In this moment when you can return to travel, I thought of the nostalgia of a certain refined and elegant way of traveling, slow, in which travel is not an obligation or a simple movement, but an elegant pleasure," Griffiths shares. The rest arrived as a result: the memories of Capote in Ischia immortalized in the pages of his work, the elegant swans that the author told the world of and which, over the years, animated the social life of the island, and, of course, the colors of the flowers of the island such as the geranium or bougainvillea.
In the mood board photo by Marella Agnelli, gardens covered with flowers, stylized city maps, polka dots that become the keys of an old-style typewriter, and women with elegant poses, daughters of the golden years of couture, come together. "Elegance is a value to be defended. For me, elegance is an attitude that goes beyond a simple dress. Elegance is being comfortable in what you wear," adds Griffiths. "With this collection, we wanted to talk to a new generation of swans: women who are working women but equally glamorous." And the whole collection that parades in the gardens of the historic Hotel Mezzatorre as the sun begins to set, overlooking the sea, tells the story of this mid-'50s and '60s universe—an idea of jet-set style with an essential charm and cultured references to the world of couture. "The whole collection is very rigorous, almost minimalist. I didn't want decorations or frills: I preferred the essence of pure elegance. Told by a luxurious color or a charming floral bouquet," the designer explains.
With Nicky Hilton and Alessandra Mastronardi in attendance, the chromatic symphony parades with powdery beiges, blinding whites, dramatic blacks, and an intense palette of pink and red. The runway continues with models displaying geometric lines and simple proportions in the name of a refined everyday wardrobe. And what, you may ask, is the cult item of the season? According to Griffiths, it's "the new version of our iconic 101801 coat that we have made in a jersey that does not crease and can be carried in a suitcase without problems. Thanks to its innovative fabric, it manages to maintain volume and does not create problems with summer temperatures."
In the Ischian sky, next to the retro airplane that shouts Local Color, a swarm of drones moves, filming the volcanic sea of the island, capturing its wild nature, and recounting the magic of the runway show. This footage will be directed and reassembled by Ginevra Elkann for her latest project behind the camera (she made her debut in 2019 with the feature film Magari. "Working with Ginevra was special," concludes the designer. "In a certain sense, it also seemed to me that I had a direct connection with Marella Agnelli (Ginevra's grandmother and one of Capote's swans, ed). Speaking with her I understood what her values were and what was the essence of style of this iconic woman: naturalness and spontaneity are the pillars of true elegance."
The same naturalness with which Capote describes Ischia in his book and seems to have infected Griffiths in his story for the Resort collection for Max Mara: "The islands are like ships always at anchor. Setting foot on an island is like stepping on a boarding bridge: one is taken by the same sense of magical suspension, it seems that nothing bad or vulgar can happen to you...In the confusion of the landing, I dropped and broke the clock—a pinch of excessive symbolism, too evident: at first glance, it was clear that Ischia was no place for a frantic chase of hours, the islands never are…"
Discover all the looks of the Max Mara Resort 2022 collection: