Runway

Alaïa Summer Fall 2022 collection

Fall Winter 2022/23 collection reveals a new side of Pieter Mulier, creative director of the Maison.

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Alaïa 's fashion show for the Fall Winter 2022/23 collection is a crescendo of emotions. From the first dress on the catwalk challenging the rules of black, it is transformed into surprising pieces. White, black and nude are the masters but there is no lack of color peaks, feathers and jumpsuits with dangerous transparencies. The presence of jeans also does not disappoint, which is maxi, fluffy, voluminous and recalls the Spanish-inspired skirts of Azzedine Alaïa . Pieter Mulier has raised the bar , has concentrated all his strength on the beauty of the clothes, abandoning himself more to his personal taste (which translates into sartorial excellence and invisible stitching). It is the encounter between the poetics and heritage of the Maison and the tastes of the creative director . It is a celebration of beauty, without too many words. It is the business card for the new generations, who have not grown up with the myth of Azzedine and her muse, Naomi Campbell.

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clothing apparel person human footwear shoe

The silhouettes are fascinating and numerous: they embrace the body transforming themselves into fluffy flounces, single-leg jumpsuits, mermaid hems, "half-length" shorts (but much more, like a dress made entirely with belts or a flesh-colored body). Knitted dresses that cover the face are the final gem: in collaboration with the Picasso Foundation , they interpreted the ceramics created by the artist in the 1940s through impressive embroideries that transformed the models' bodies into optical illusions. Like goddesses, the models capture the attention of the public by parading cold in their abides of immutable beauty. Each look has a surprising detail: it can be the shoes (from simil clogs worn to boots to nude decollete), it can be the bright color or it can be the oversized proportions

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Who would have thought that even coats became part of the Alaïa universe ? Directly from the male wardrobe, minimal-cut oversized blazers, fur sleeveless jackets reminiscent of a distant animalier effect, tight-fitting leather coats and black and white wool capes. Bold and extremely feminine, the collection was applauded, appreciated, loved. Mulier received a stranding ovation. Now the ball goes to them, will Gen Z have the extra quelque chose to fall in love with this historic Maison?

>> Discover the Alaïa Fall Winter 2022/23 collection

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