#GucciLondra: The Cruise 2025 show at the Tate Modern is a love letter to London
Sabato De Sarno returns to the origins of the fashion house founded at the beginning of the 20th century by Guccio Gucci.
Everyone knows that Gucci is an Italian fashion house, but in reality, its roots sprouted in London. While founder Guccio Gucci opened his first G. Gucci & Co store in 1921, at the age of 40, in Florence, Guccio used to repeat to his children that the foundation of Gucci dated back more than two decades.
When at the age of 16, against the wishes of his family, Guccio went to London. He had no money and spoke no English. However, he found work as a doorman at the Savoy Hotel. In that place, the first of its kind built in London, Guccio meets aristocrats and artists, opera singers and captains of industry.
By studying the way of life of these people, he manages not only to create objects that last over time and adapt to their needs but also to create objects that have their own uniqueness and a precise aesthetic code.
"We'll always have London", reads the title of Gucci's Cruise 2025 fashion show and the return to the English capital is strongly desired by the creative director Sabato De Sarno.
The show takes place on the theme of dichotomies: rigour and extravagance, solidity in delicacy, British style with Italian echoes. Tailoring goes hand in hand with workwear, streetwear with evening wear.
"By subverting them, we used the codes as a tool of provocation", said creative director Sabato De Sarno. From the short outerwear in technical gabardine, juxtaposed with motifs that draw wild chamomile stems on the clothes to the embroidery made in laser-cut organza that are manually assembled or in hand-shaped sequins that move freely around the body, the execution was flawless.
And there is no ready-to-wear without denim. Sabato De Sarno opts for a baggy cut that ends on ballet flats and creepers - the designer embraces ballet core, in contrast with the high platforms of the "Ancora" collections.
The symbols of British style (tartans and sartorial suits) and Gucci emblems are reimagined, infused with new energy for a new generation in a different time. Inspired by the Italy of the early 70s, the Gucci Blondie bag "contrasts preciousness and utilitarianism: worn on the shoulder, its emblematic logo is covered in leather or applied with a technique borrowed from Gucci jewellery."
Discover all the looks from the Gucci Cruise 2025 collection
Swipe the gallery below to see the collection:
