Runway

Gucci’s new era under Sabato De Sarno is all about elevated minimalism

The designer presented his debut Spring/Summer 2024 collection at the Gucci Hub.

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All eyes are on Gucci as its newly appointed creative director Sabato de Sarno presents his first collection. Originally scheduled to be held outdoors, the show was moved back to its home ground, the Gucci Hub, due to a storm warning, yet the skies cleared up just in time before the show began, symbolising a fresh start.

Titled “Ancora” (“still” in English), Sabato’s aim with his debut collection is to make everyone fall in love with fashion — and in Gucci — again. It’s also a collection that celebrates all the little joys in life. “It’s a story of music and nights out, of sweat, dancing, and singing. It’s a story of family, of kissing, lots and lots of kisses. It’s a story of everything, again, but this time expressed through joy,” states the press notes. 

Inside the red room that turned completely dark as the model strutted down the runway, the opening looks were a series of minimal essentials that were definitely a far cry from his predecessor’s maximalism aesthetic. The looks may not be loud, but his goal to reinvent Gucci is clear. It’s important to note that he forged a new path without forgetting to pay homage to the past, though. The new signature shade — the Rosso Ancora — is inspired by the walls of the staff elevator at The Savoy Hotel in London where the brand’s founder Guccio Gucci worked as a porter, and the intricate fringed looks reference the archival designs by Tom Ford. 

Elsewhere, caged embellished shift dresses as well as the array of mini Jackies stole the show, along with the sky-high platform loafers that lend both heights and style boost. Perhaps one of our favourite parts was the juxtapositions. Enter the masculine fits paired with short silhouettes, athleisure hoodies worn with embossed leather skirts, and mini slip dresses layered under relaxed shirts. 

Sabato’s collection might not be what we were used to seeing, but it’s definitely what modern-day women need. We’re looking forward to seeing what else he has in store for us next.

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