Schiaparelli’s Spring/Summer 2022 is the definition of surrealistic
The great Elsa Schiaparelli is the muse of the house’s latest collection.
A woman, a myth, an iconic figure. Elsa Schiaparelli, the legendary rival of Coco Chanel, a visionary admirer of the Surrealist current whom she collaborated with several times (Salvador Dali and the Lobster Dress), pioneer of the wrap dress, and lover of shocking pink, has helped change the course of fashion.
Her ideas, already considered avant-garde in the '40 and '50s, resonated in the fashion shows of contemporary designers.
Her innovations continue to be studied, integrated, and reinterpreted, primarily by the Maison itself and for the Spring/Summer 2022 collection, takes her as the Inspiring Muse, examines her life, and wonders who the founder of the Maison really was. Who was Schiaparelli once she returned safely to her home? Who was Schiaparelli walking with her beloved nieces, Marisa and Berry Berenson? Who was Schiaparelli on vacation?
For Schiaparelli's Spring/Summer 2022 collection, the Maison investigated behind the scenes of the founder's daring life. It was said that there were "two Elsas," the one in the city between public life, parties, work commitments, and Parisian lounges, and the one on vacation with her family on the sunny coasts of the Côte d'Azur.
The first one had an exaggerated wardrobe, surrealist jewellery, hard chic dresses, and oversized blazers with miniskirts. Sequins, floral prints, visible seams, and a '70s mood were the designer's daily bread. On the other hand, the holiday was an escape from the chaos of the city. It was the relief valve for knitted jumpsuits and multicoloured stripes, black silk dresses with a draped touch, viscose caftans, and impressive belts. The silhouettes were easy but sensual, as nothing is banal when it's Schiaparelli.
The designer, like today's women, escaped the boring and let herself be lulled by the idea of being wild and natural, chic and sexy, tailored and relaxed. The game of duality was her game. Who was Schiaparelli? She is the irreducible woman, she is unavoidable.
