Interview: 5 minutes with Simone Rocha and Ann-Sofie Johansson
The Simone Rocha x H&M collection finally arrives with the excitement of the Irish designer’s entry into menswear. The collaboration sees a full wardrobe of womenswear, menswear and childrenswear rooted in Rocha’s romanticism and trademark—pink, tulle, puff sleeves and pearls—whisking us into her world of whimsical. “I hope that the items in this collection will be worn and treasured for years to come. They were all informed by ideas and inspirations that have shaped me and my brand over the last 10 years, and I am so excited to see them worn out-and-about and interpreted and styled in new ways,” shares the designer on the collab.
Scroll down to read the full interview with Simone Rocha and Ann-Sofie Johansson:
Your collections have always been known to tell a story. What is the story for Simone Rocha x H&M?
Simone Rocha: The collection brings together themes, or narratives, that are always present in my work; art history, craft, strong femininity, my Irish heritage, and my Hong Kong heritage. It feels like a real celebration of 10 years in business – a chance to look back on lots of the stories we have told over the years. But also, I hope, it reads as a collection that looks to the future; there are themes of optimism, of joy, of escapism. The campaign especially is about celebrating the release that will come when we can meet again, and spend quality time with friends and loved ones.
Instead of just womenswear, you have extended your design aesthetics to men's and childrenswear. How was the experience like creating for these two categories? How does it translate from your usual design process/aesthetics?
SR: Indeed, it is the first time I have offered a collection for the whole family, and I really did conceive of it like that – as one voice, one aesthetic. Every piece in the collection – his and hers, adult and small - is designed to be in conversation with each other; one unit, one identity. It’s not so much that the menswear is about masculinity, or that the womenswear is highly feminine; it’s really about a mix, a sense of different pieces in dialogue, a cross-over between genders. So, there is trench for him and one for her, knits for him, ones for her, shirting for both. It’s very much a shared sensibility, and I love the idea of people mixing and matching and wearing everything in their own way. The process of working on a menswear collection did also allow us to look back on our existing archive - tailoring was a big part of my brand early on. So, creating these menswear pieces didn’t feel like a totally new step; in fact, it was wonderful to revisit some of the more androgynous shapes and styles that I explored when starting out my label; tailoring, shirting, brogues, trenches. All these aspects have always been very much a part of my DNA. And we do play with scale a lot as a brand also, so in a way the childrenswear felt natural also.
Marking the first collaboration for the both of you, what was the starting point of your inspiration for the collection and how did it evolve to what we see today?
SR: There were certainly key collections that stood out as landmarks, and those especially have informed this collection; I spent a lot of time looking back at the first neoprene pearly collection we did, which was Spring/Summer 2014 - it General Information really felt like a moment in establishing my identity, and it was when I first introduced the pearl, which is now so signature. I also looked at Spring/Summer 2016, which was partly inspired by the Japanese photographer Nobuyoshi Araki, and which was my first Fashion Week show in Lancaster House, and the Anne Boleyn collection, which was Autumn/Winter 2014, and mixing elements from that, such as the seersucker tartan checked dress, with more recent elements, like the pleated tulles from the Red Dolls collection, which was Spring/Summer 2018. So it’s not mere re-editions of these pieces – it was about twisting and updating them to fit with today, and mixing different elements from past collections together into new garments.
Out of all the pieces you have created for this collaboration, which would be your favourite look?
SR: I really love the black tulle dress that can be layered over other dresses in the collection. It’s a really versatile piece and I can’t wait to see how other people style it. I am also really pleased with the knits, and I think the tartan we have developed is very special.
When was your first encounter with the works of Simone Rocha and what spurred you on to collaborate with her for this collection?
Ann-Sofie Johansson: Simone Rocha has been on H&M’s wish-list for a long time. We have been following her work for a number of years and have been so impressed with how clear her perspective is. I think what really impressed us was how Simone has such a unique and special aesthetic, season on season; she has such a clear point of view. And that felt very exciting for this moment; a female designer with such a clear sense of who she is, and what she wants to say. And, of course we are so excited that this collection marks the first time we have worked with an Irish designer.
Marking the first collaboration for the both of you, what was the starting point of your inspiration for the collection and how did it evolve to what we see today?
ASJ: It’s a real amalgamation of 10 years of the Simone Rocha label. I feel that the H&M x Simone Rocha collection really does emphasise the things that define Simone and her aesthetic; the volume, the decoration, the beautiful fabrications, crafted in house, which is very rare. And, of course, the jewellery, the embellishments, the incredible details.
Out of all the pieces you have created for this collaboration, which would be your favourite look?
ASJ: I really like the brogues with the pearl edging. I’ve just been telling Simone that all of us at H&M want a pair. We talked about how brogues were one of the first cult accessories she developed when she was starting out her label – people really adored them. So it’s really nice to offer a take on them for a new audience, to allow people access to that moment in fashion history. That’s really what these collaborative collections are all about – allowing customers to own a precious moment of design history or an item that really sums up a designer’s essence or ethos.
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