Couture Class: Van Cleef & Arpels renews its Ludo signature
Van Cleef & Arpels pulls out all the stops tapping on the glamour of its heritage Ludo bracelet for a new slew of spectacular secret watches.
Though the 1920s spawned the Art Deco period beloved for its clean and pure lines, the 1930s were equally resonant in influence. Associated with Hollywood’s Golden Age, the entrancing decade embodied screen glamour—generated by a cinematic renaissance associated with the birth of new genres, new stars and a new studio system.
Emblematic of the ’30s legion of drop-dead gorgeous actresses—who looked a million dollars, as they were described in the past—was the show-stopping couture they were often dressed in, replete with lustrous fabrics and extravagant flourishes. It was also amidst those years, 1934 to be exact, that Van Cleef & Arpels unveiled the Ludo bracelet, which reinterpreted the sophisticated era’s alluring bows, fabric patterns and delicate lace.
Playfully named after Louis Arpels’ nickname, the Ludo bracelet boasted an innovative and captivating construction that endowed its design with the flexibility and suppleness of a precious belt. Its streamlined silhouette and languid lines not just paid homage to the beauty and classicism of couture prevalent in 1930s high society, but they also accentuated the graceful curve of the wrist as how a belt would bring refinement and charm to one’s contours.
In fact, the Ludo was so treasured by the Van Cleef & Arpels family that the collection’s muse, Hélène Arpels, Louis’ wife, would boldly and stylishly wear the bracelet over gloves or long sleeves to highlight its lines. Over the ensuing century, the Ludo bracelet was prolifically renewed—enhanced with abstract shapes and the patterns of Art Deco all the while remaining true to the spirit of its original design.
Composed of briquette motifs, the original creation was joined the following year by an iteration flaunting small articulated hexagons. Adorned either with a symbol in Mystery Set, or with flowers or graceful volutes, both interpretations were adapted throughout the 1930s, expressed as rings, watches and lapel clips.
Among its most recent reinventions, the Ludo is presented in two new different secret watch styles. They have taken cues from the original Ludo bracelet in echoing the shape of a belt with a flexible mesh, pierced by a jewel-encrusted motif in lieu of the buckle.
Particularly eye-catching are the heritage hexagonal links acting as the base for a myriad of materials and colours of gold. A precious ruby or sapphire in a star setting is positioned at the centre of each hexagonal link— exemplifying the Ludo’s codes of embellishment in embracing the wrist with a glittering constellation.
For these pieces, a white mother-of-pearl dial sits at the centre, encircled by diamonds, and is revealed when the cabochon atop charmingly rotates to showcase its iridescent shades with a set star indicating the twelve hours.
The first luminous rendition in rose gold is complemented by warm rubies and coral; while two versions in yellow gold combine chrysoprase, emeralds and sapphires on one; and lapis lazuli and blue and pink sapphires on the other. This interplay of hue and materials is anchored by a symmetrical rose design whose petals blossom in differently sized gems around a stunning hard stone cabochon with a diamond halo.
Upping the ante, the Maison’s tradition of transformable pieces is woven into this trio of Ludo secret watches for great versatility. Firstly, the dial motif can be replaced on the bracelet by a hexagonal mesh buckle set with precious stones; and secondly, the rose can be multitasked as a clip or a pendant on a long chain.
But the jewel in the crown of this grand Ludo outing is indubitably the pair of unique Mystery Set pieces, inspired by the Ludo Hexagone Macarons secret watch from 1941 and where the time is revealed beneath a central pattern of sapphires or rubies. Two sparkling loops frame either side of the dial of these Ludo Secret masterpieces—an intensely chromatic emblem in Mystery Set rubies or sapphires with a slightly convex profile, syncing with the voluptuous curves of the case and the rounded bracelet.
Probably what lies most hidden in the Ludo secret watches is the level of technical craftsmanship required to bring them to life. From the meticulous hand-assembled hexagonal shapes that articulate a delicate weave to the expertly chosen precious gems for their intensity, colour and quality; and aesthetical know-how in juxtaposing the stones as well as the variety of their cuts; all this is a testament to the Maison’s peerless prowess.
Illuminating the unique pieces is the Mystery Set technique, a jewellery-making feat symbolising the exclusive Van Cleef & Arpels Mains d’Or skill in rare lapidaries and master jewellery of inserting intricately cut precious stones onto gold rails to flawlessly cover the set surface so that it emanates a velvety sheen. So the secret is now revealed.
Visit vancleefarpels.com to find out more.
