Eastern Promises: The story behind the wonders of Qeelin jewellery
Nearly two decades have passed since Qeelin (@qeelinjewellery) made its grand debut on the red carpet of the 2004 Cannes Film Festival. The shoulder-grazing Wulu single earring by the jeweller was worn on the world stage by actress Maggie Cheung, a good friend and muse of founder and creative director Dennis Chan, leaving an indelible mark of an East-meets-West design code that has since become a cornerstone of the Qeelin brand.
Drawn from the mythical power of the Hulu — which according to legends could subdue demons and monsters by absorbing all forms of evil or negative energy —, the Wulu traces the silhouette of the Chinese gourd that resembles the number eight.
It is then reimagined through a contemporary lens to emerge with streamlined smooth curves that have become a hallmark. Over the years, the collection has been actively revisited and refreshed with a score of precious materials that include jade, red agate, mother-of-pearl and diamonds.
But where did it all start? To Chan, it began with a journey to Dunhuang in the Gansu Province back in 1997. The city’s storied past as a pivotal meeting point between the East and West on the ancient Silk Road, along with the atavistic artworks that filled its Mogao Caves, led him to an epiphany that the world lacked a jewellery entity that gave precedence to Chinese cultural heritage.
In essence, there wasn’t a label around that his future generations could look up to and take pride in. “Passing jewellery down from generation to generation is quintessentially Chinese. We have always wanted to pass on our traditions, our heritage and our wealth.
In the same way, I hope to leave a legacy that will inspire both Chinese people and the world at large,” says Chan in a statement. And if Wulu’s rise to stardom is any indication, he has done just that. Qeelin has proven that there is room in the luxury market for authentic, thoughtfully crafted jewellery rooted in Asian cultures and customs.
Among the jewellery house’s blockbuster hits is the Yu Yi collection, which has received universal acclaim for its witty depiction of the old-school protective talisman, the longevity lock. Shining new light on the lock’s traditional patterns, the accessory that was once used to ward off evils and bring peace to the wearer with its special engraving is now offered in a series of romantic pieces to bring love and luck to the likes of working women.
Meanwhile, the youthful Bo Bo celebrates a fluffy figure that has been part of the Chinese civilisation for aeons, the panda. Back in the Tang Dynasty period, Empress Wu Zetian would present pandas as gifts to the Japanese emperor.
The elusive animal had become an envoy and a symbol of friendship among countries and kingdoms throughout various dynasties. So, combining that with Chan’s personal liking for teddy bears—he is also a collector of antique teddy bears — Qeelin’s charming Bo Bo collection simultaneously captures childhood innocence and curiosity.
Bringing more than just sentiment to the table, the Qeelin treasure trove breaks the mould with its outstanding savoir-faire. An incredible feat is achieved with the Bo Bo range where technical marvel allows the panda charms freedom of movement.
Employing ingenious techniques, Qeelin equips the gentle creature with a moveable head and limbs, and enables the wearer to change its appearance with stylish diamond “outfits”. These playful and intricate designs not only impart an energetic personality into fine jewellery but also expand the realm of Chinese micro-craftsmanship.
Elsewhere, innovation is exemplified in the versatility of the brand’s jewellery pieces including, and coming full circle, the Wulu.
Cheung was among the first to showcase this when she opted to wear the Wulu pendant on her waist. In perfect harmony, the beautiful curves of her back augmented Wulu’s clean lines, demonstrating Qeelin’s unique aesthetic that empowers personal style and expression.