The evolution of the Omega Seamaster

At first, there was the marine

Omega’s legacy in the maritime realm began with the introduction of the “OMEGA Marine” in 1932, which holds the distinction of being the world’s first diver’s watch available to civilian divers. This timepiece boasted a cleverly designed double case, offering exceptional water resistance that captivated adventurous explorers and laid the foundation for Omega’s future in diving. Notably, it was the watch of choice for Charles William Beebe, the pioneering American explorer who developed the “bathysphere,” a spherical diving vessel enabling humans to explore the depths of the ocean. The “Marine” timepiece proved its worth during Beebe’s historic dive to a depth of 14 m in the 1930s. With its pioneering construction, the “Marine” also earned the trust of explorers like Yves Le Prieur and marked a definitive turning point for Omega.

1948 – The Seamaster arrived

Between 1940 and 1945, Omega supplied over 110,000 timepieces to the British Ministry of Defence for use by the Royal Air Force and its other branches. These watches were highly regarded by the airmen and sailors due to their water resistance and dependability in combat.

The watchmaking expertise that Omega gained during World War II was transformed into a refined collection of timepieces suitable for everyday wear. Responding to the demand for a timepiece with the same sturdy technology, but more suited to civilian life, Omega introduced the Seamaster line — its first family of watches. These timepieces featured exquisite designs and were endowed with even greater water resistance than their military counterparts, thanks to Omega’s innovative use of the O-ring gasket technology.

That year, to commemorate the brand’s 100th anniversary, Omega introduced the Seamaster in 1948, marking the inception of this distinguished line of watches. Derived from Omega’s military expertise and famed for its unwavering reliability and exceptional water resistance, the Seamaster soon grew into an enduring symbol of Omega’s watchmaking prowess and unwavering pursuit of excellence. The inaugural Seamaster featured a robust case with thick lugs and also boasted long leaf-shaped hands, adding a touch of sophistication to its sporty nature.

1957 – The Professional

1957 saw Omega introducing its Professional line of watches which consisted of three timepieces that would each achieve their own legendary status: the Speedmaster, the Seamaster 300 and the Railmaster.

The Seamaster 300 played a pivotal role in advancing underwater exploration thanks to its exceptional reliability and easily legible display which featured a black dial, luminous indexes and large hands. Encased in a rugged stainless steel case, the Seamaster 300 CK2913 housed a self-winding calibre and was rigorously tested, guaranteeing a water resistance of up to 660 ft that surpassed the limits of ordinary divers.

The watch featured an external rotating bezel that allowed divers to track their dive time, enhancing their safety. This innovative feature was complemented by a triple-protection system, including the pioneering use of Omega’s exclusive “Naiad” crown. Unlike traditional screw-down crowns used in water-resistant watches, Omega’s crown system was remarkably simple yet highly effective. As the diver descended to greater depths and encountered increased water pressure, the “Naiad” crown would tighten its grip and improve its sealing capabilities.

1963 – The second generation

The Seamaster 300 underwent a distinctive design evolution in 1963. This version featured luminous baton hands, large tritium indexes and a luminous bezel, ensuring uncluttered legibility even in challenging conditions. The British Royal Navy also relied on Seamaster 300 watches, similar to these models, for their maritime operations. 

1971 – The Ploprof appears

Made to endure the immense pressure of the ocean depths, the remarkable Ploprof watch is renowned for its ingenious design features. Its monocoque case effectively prevents the penetration of helium atoms, and it incorporates a system of over-compressed gaskets, ensuring exceptional performance. Furthermore, the crown is safeguarded by a substantial locking nut, while a red button controls the bezel’s locking mechanism.

1972 – An evolution

The Seamaster Diver 120M came in a captivating blue hue and showcases a robust case accompanied by innovative pushers that can be operated underwater. Notably, the design incorporates a unique feature — an internal 60-minute counter — allowing for two distinct diving measurements. With this central counter, one can effortlessly track both dive time and decompression time without the need to adjust the bezel.

1976 – Extreme performance

Until 2009, the Seamaster 1000 held the distinction of being the most water-resistant model ever produced by OMEGA. Originally designed for major explorations, it underwent several years of rigorous testing before being made available to the public. The “Pilot Line” case, known for its thickness, was intentionally curved to conform to the shape of a diver’s wrist, and a ribbed case back ensured a secure fit when worn over a wetsuit.

1978 – The Shom

By the 1970s, Omega had established a strong reputation for manufacturing high-quality diver’s watches and among the standout timepieces of that era was the Omega Seamaster Professional 200M, celebrated for its distinctive octagonal steel case and luminous black dial. In 1978, it was selected as the preferred watch by The Naval Hydrographic and Oceanographic Service (SHOM), a French government agency responsible for producing official maps and charts for divers at sea, known for their demanding work. In recognition of this support, the watch has since been commonly referred to as the Omega Seamaster Professional “SHOM.”

1993 – Revival

The introduction of the Diver 300M in 1993 marked Omega’s highly successful reentry into the realm of diving watches. Notable for its distinctive features, the watch boasted a waved dial, skeletonised hands, perfectly circular indexes and a helium escape valve.

1995 – Omega and Bond

In 1995, the Seamaster took on a new supporting role when it made its debut appearance in the James Bond film, GoldenEye. Since then, in every James Bond film released since 1995, the Seamaster watch has been inseparable from the iconic character. It has often played a crucial role in saving Bond’s life, featuring explosive capabilities that are exclusive to the cinematic adaptations. Despite these unique additions, the Bond association has added an extra layer of legacy to the Seamaster, resonating strongly with fans of the franchise.

2002 – Sea and land

Omega then introduced a striking new collection to its renowned Seamaster family of timepieces in 2002. Named Aqua Terra, this range paid tribute to the original Omega Seamaster models, which were known for their reliability both on water (Aqua) and on land (Terra).

The first Aqua Terra line featured an impressive selection of 40 models available in different sizes. This diverse range easily accommodated an active lifestyle. The watches showcased a minimalist design that seamlessly transitioned from business days to social evenings. However, these timepieces remained true to their Seamaster heritage, delivering exceptional performance supported by anti-shock technology and water resistance up to 150 m.

2005 – Planet ocean

Inspired by the iconic Seamaster 300 model of 1957, the original Planet Ocean watch retained its own distinct personality by incorporating bold orange accents. With a remarkable water resistance of 600 m and the introduction of the revolutionary Co-Axial Calibre 2500 movement, the watch set a new standard for Seamaster watches to come.

2008 – Aqua Terra reimagined

The Seamaster Aqua Terra collection saw a continuous evolution, consistently adapting to contemporary styles and preferences while maintaining its relevance. While certain design aspects have remained consistent, nearly every other element has been reimagined over the years. One significant development that has become a defining trademark of the Aqua Terra collection is the introduction of the “teak” pattern dial in 2008.

2013 – Anti-magnetic

In 2013, Omega achieved a significant breakthrough by unveiling the Co-Axial 8508, a watch movement that could withstand the magnetic forces of more than 15,000 gauss. This remarkable advancement surpassed any previous achievements in magnetic resistance. The movement was introduced in the Seamaster Aqua Terra > 15,000 gauss model. Instead of relying on a traditional inner case for protection, Omega incorporated carefully selected non-ferrous materials directly into the movement itself.

2019 – Extreme expedition

The Five Deeps Expedition, conceived by adventurer Victor Vescovo, embarked on a groundbreaking mission to reach the deepest point in each of the five oceans. As the first person to have reached both the highest and lowest points on Earth, Vescovo required reliable timekeeping support for his audacious endeavour.

In response, Omega developed the Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep. To withstand the harshest conditions, the Ultra Deep timepiece incorporated exceptional features. While its case was crafted from forged grade 5 titanium, the watch also introduced innovative “Manta lugs” for secure fastening and a sapphire face with a conical loadbearing design, inspired by the viewports of submersibles.

In April 2019, three Ultra Deep watches accompanied Vescovo on a historic descent to the bottom of the Mariana Trench in the Pacific Ocean. At 10,935 m, it was the deepest point ever reached by man or watch. Two of the watches were affixed to the submersible’s robotic arm, while another was attached to a data-gathering unit called a Lander. All three watches completed the 12-hour dive flawlessly, emerging from the depths unscathed and fully functional.

2022 – The Ultra Deep

After the World Record in 2019, Omega expanded the collection with the full 6,000 m range. These timepieces, known as the “world’s deepest watches,” are made for the public and come in a variety of colours, incorporating robust materials such as Grade 5 Titanium and O-MEGASTEEL. The technology that enabled the record-breaking dive has been translated into this collection. This game-changing collection features high-performance materials and patent- pending designs that represent the pinnacle of Omega’s dive watch legacy.

Throughout its initial years spanning three-quarters of a century, the Omega Seamaster has undergone continuous development, presenting a distinctive aesthetic appeal and outstanding mechanical performance that has garnered widespread trust and admiration globally. It has, without a doubt, stamped its mark in the world of dive and sports watches. But beyond that, it has become an icon of its own and a watch that we cannot imagine being without in our journey of horology.