Cartier launches the Beautés du Monde High Jewellery collection in Madrid
The French luxury jeweller Cartier reveals yet another spellbinding ode to nature.
High jewellery season has descended once again with a parade of extravagant creations for 2022. Leading the procession is Cartier’s Beautés du Monde High Jewellery collection, which corrals the Maison’s singular eye in defining beauty through the abundant inspirations offered by cultures, as well as nature where fauna and flora sit at the helm.
This passion can be traced back to the Cartier brothers, who had observed and reinvented the beauty gleaned from the world, embellishing it with art and the savoir faire of perfectly mastered know-how.
Specific advanced techniques—both complex ancient ones as well as contemporary innovations—are employed by the Maison, one of which is the "trembling" setting that endows movement in jewels, as seen in the 1950s pin brooches, 1957 Palmier brooch and María Félix's crocodile necklace created in 1975. Cartier’s superlative skills and craftsmanship also ensure the front and back of its jewellery are in sync with and serve one another.
Weaving together design, the tension of lines, geometry and abstraction together with the interplay of the luminous beauty of stones that have been carefully sourced, these high jewellery creations avow once again Cartier’s wonder and endless expressions of the diversity of beauty—an unforgettable visual feast and encounter not to be missed.
Iwana Necklace
Mastery of cut and art of composition combine forces in the Iwana necklace to evoke the reptile’s superbly supple and textured skin. Anchored by three Colombian emeralds in a unique cabochon-cut hexagon shape reminiscent of the creature’s dorsal spines, the necklace’s central emblem fans out into openwork triangular motifs, set or paved with diamonds and emeralds, to articulate bold geometry, coupled with flexibility when worn.
Water Aspis Necklace
Executed using Cartier’s repertoire of techniques known in French as “sur oeuvre", the Water Aspis necklace’s elegantly hypnotic and sinuous coil linking is a testament to the prowess of the Maison’s most expert lapidaries. Studded liberally with diamonds in triangular ridges alongside a lapis lazuli scale motif border, it showcases a pendant featuring two Sri Lankan sapphires and a round rose-cut diamond. Its serpent inspiration sits at the junction of realism, stylisation and abstraction, while the reverse side of the pliable necklace mirrors the diamond cut in front with geometric patterns and openwork details to unleash the sparkle of the stones.
Apatura Necklace
The epitome of lightness, the Apatura necklace’s abstract interpretation of the butterfly highlights Cartier’s beloved blend of nuances and bright-hued combinations. The mysterious opal stone with its fire and vivid reflections is chosen to echo the chromatic palette of the insect’s wings. Three Australian opals are juxtaposed with strands of sapphire beads, radiating from the graphic fan-shaped central stone and crafted using the threading technique that requires the shape and colour of the sapphire beads to be perfectly aligned. This transformable necklace can be worn with or without the detachable pendant—which can fly solo as a statement brooch itself.
Nouchali Necklace
From the animal to the plant kingdom, the Maison presents the Nouchali necklace—a stylised expression of the water lily—suspended on a chalcedony bead necklace, and decorated with lacquer, onyx and diamonds surrounding a rubellite central stone. Courtesy of the "en tremblant” mounting, the delicate elements of this ethereal sculpture are set aflutter at the slightest stimulus.
Seven Rings Capsule Collection
This capsule collection of seven mesmerising rings—Amodea, Viridia, Karet, Mizuchi, Scila, Tilasm and Yasifan—is a rare one, appearing for the first time in Cartier’s High Jewellery collection and serving to exemplify their relationship that spans the ocean depths to the sky. Stunning individually and also collectively, the beauty of the universe is distilled through each ring. Sculptural and united in style, the line-up encompasses the Maison’s design pillars: geometry, movement, colour contrasts, flora and fauna, as well as the interplay of stones including triangular diamonds, purple spinels, cabochon tourmalines or green diamonds. Through this chromatic voyage of gems, we are rewarded with the magical imaginings that originate from the likes of a mythological sea dragon to an asteroid.
Recif Necklace
Perched between fauna and flora, the marine ecosystem’s coral reefs provide inspiration for the Recif necklace. A rhythmic contrast in tandem with the Maison’s emblematic green and orange combination is evoked by emerald and coral ribbed beads with amethyst cabochon accents, arranged to replicate a “twisting movement” along a diamond atoll.
Rituel Necklace
Traversing to a cultural slant, specifically traditional Mesoamerican jewellery, the Rituel necklace’s double-row azure chalcedony beads and ruby constellation are punctuated with diamond cones and faceted rubies to invoke the rhythm of symmetry and parallelism.
The Big Reveal in Spain
On June 13 in Madrid, Cartier unveiled an exhibition that showcases around 100 creations of the Beautés du Monde collection’s first chapter, along with selected High Jewellery, Cartier Tradition and Haute Horlogerie pieces.
The mise en scène is staged at a 1960s radical Brutalist building, the Embassy, designed by English architect WS Bryant and Madrid native Luis Blanco-Soler. Inspired by the form of arenas, the rounded construction comes replete with burladeros-like windows, an interior courtyard and a fountain.
Madrid artist and designer Jaime Hayon was entrusted to design the exhibition scenography and the outcome is a picture of absolute purity, enhanced by a well of light, colour and rounded arches.
An interesting fact is that the Embassy, unoccupied since 2009, finally opened its doors again for the event after its renovation was proudly undertaken by the Maison in line with its commitment to preserve heritage.
A venue located in the heart of Madrid that also symbolises Cartier’s connection—marked by friendship and loyalty—to Spain which began in 1904, when the Maison was granted a royal warrant as an official supplier by King Alfonso XIII. The rest as they say is history with a lineage of creations including a tiara specially made for Queen Victoria Eugenia in 1920, now worn by Queen Letizia; and a mystery clock acquired in 1927 by a member of the Spanish court.